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Showing posts with label Salmon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Salmon. Show all posts

6.03.2010

Last Chapter of Posthumous Memoirs - Caipirinhas and Salmon with Caipirinha Risotto, and Illegitimate Children Really Have It Rough in This Book

"She liked him, they grew close, made love. From that conjunction of empty sensuality Dona Plácida came into bloom. It must be believed that Dona Plácida still couldn’t talk when she was born, but if she could have, she might have said to the authors of her days, ‘Here I am. Why did you call me?’ And the sacristan and the sacristaness would naturally have answered her, ‘We called you to burn your fingers on pots, your eyes in sewing, to eat poorly or not at all, to go from one place to another in drudgery, getting ill and recovering only to get ill and recover once again, sad now, then desperate, resigned tomorrow, but always with your hands on the pot and your eyes on the sewing until one day you end up in the mire or in the hospital. That’s why we called you in a moment of sympathy.’”

Book:  The Posthumous Memoirs of Bras Cubas by Joaquim Maria
Recipes:  The Brazilian Kitchen by Leticia Moreinos Shwartz

Caipirinhas
Limes
Sugar
Cachaça
Seltzer 
Ice


I would include the recipe in here, but it was more frustrating than not and may have resulted in sugar and lime juice splashing all over the kitchen table.  This is a great summer drink.  Once you've worked out the proportions of lime and sugar to your own taste, you'll want it all the time.  Here are my suggestions for making it up:  Slice a bunch of limes into sixths.  Dump them in a plastic bag with some sugar.  Let the sugar and fruit marinate until you are ready to use it.  This will allow you to make single drinks but not suffer any lag time between them.  Then, take a few limes out, squeeze them into your glass, add a shot of cachaça, some ice, and seltzer and enjoy.  Repeat as necessary.  




After checking out about 4 different liquor stores I finally found cachaça at Fresh Direct, of all places, and had 2 bottles delivered yesterday.  Now, all I need to find is some dende oil and some manioc starch and I'll be all set with Brazilian ingredients.  


Salmon with Caipirinha Risotto
For the Risotto

2 cups arborio rice
1/2 medium onion, finely diced
2 tbsp olive oil
3/4 cup cachaça
6 cups vegetable or fish stock
2 tablespoons butter
Zest of 1 lime 
Juice of 2 limes
1 generous tablespoon creme fraiche

For the Salmon

4 boneless, skinless salmon fillets
Salt and Pepper to taste
Olive oil

Heat the olive oil in a wide, shallow saute pan over medium heat and saute the onions until they are transparent.  Add the rice to the pan and heat it until it only turns translucent with just a dot in the center.  Add 1/2 cup of cachaça, stirring constantly until all the liquid is absorbed.  Slowly begin adding a ladlefull of the stock at a time until the liquid is mostly absorbed each time.  Reserve at least 1/4 cup of the stock.  The rice is done when it is al dente.  Add the butter, lime zest and juice, creme fraiche, and remaining cachaça.  Hold the remaining stock in reserve until just before you are ready to serve the rice.  

For the salmon:

Salt and pepper the fillets on each side.  Heat the oil in a pan and cook the salmon about 2 minutes of each side, or until it has the desired doneness  (well cooked salmon will tend toward dryness).  

Add the last 1/4 cup of stock to the rice and serve as a bed for the salmon.  



The recipe in the book made it's risotto in a way that was completely unfamiliar to me. I adapted this from the way Williams-Sonoma suggests making risotto, the recipe I always use, with the exception of adding creme fraiche, which tasted fine.  It also said to simultaneously cook the rice and fish, timing it to finish at the same time.  This is pretty difficult considering you have to stir the rice constantly and my kitchen helper was fighting with the end of a wooden spoon attempting to make it serve as a muddler for the caipirinhas.  That's why I suggest adding the last of the stock just before cooking to avoid your rice coming out sticky.  This recipe was received with rave reviews both from kitchen helper Jay, and Ashley, who got a sampling for lunch at work today. 

About the book:  

Boy, do illegitimate get a bad rap by Joaquim Maria.  We've already heard about poor Eugenia who is rediscovered as a pauper, living alone in a tiny room, supported by charity and with the slight implication of fallenness about her.  Then there is Dona Placida,  "the illegitimate child of a sexton at the cathedral and a woman who sold sweets on the street," whose own, legitimate daughter, ran off with a man, and who's mother questioned why she didn't just sell herself to a "temporary husband."  Virtuous in herself, she suffers eternally for the sins of her parents.  And Bras Cubas seems to imply that it should be thus.  He comes to the conclusion, ruminating on her life, that at least she served some purpose, "If it hadn’t been for our love affair, most likely Dona Plácida would have ended up like so many other human creatures, from which it can be deduced that vice many times is manure for virtue. And that doesn’t prevent virtue from being a fragrant and healthy bloom. My conscience agreed and I went to open the door for Virgilia."  And he congratulates himself on saving her.  Of course, she weakens later, marries a scoundrel who steals her 5 contos, and dies a beggar in the indigents' hospital. 

Other than these reflections, there is a whole section on this made up religion, Humanitism, which I'm not too interested in writing about, but which posits that envy is some kind of virtue.  It was invented by a crazy character and doesn't take up too much of the story. 

Having finished the book, I can honestly say that it had it's rare moments, but an overall assessment is that while it's not the worst book I've ever read, it surely was far from the best.  I think I don't like much of the unfairness of it.  The irregularity of wealth, the assumptions about women, fallen or otherwise, the blase disregard for the treatment of slaves and underlings.  It surely reflected it's period well;  one filled with hypocrisy and the glamor of the few. 

3.30.2010

Book 12 - Chapter 12 - Makarony Po Dalnevostochnomu and Tolstoy Has Started to Play With Time

"But the calm, luxurious life of Petersburg, concerned only about phantoms and reflections of real life, went on in its old way and made it hard, except by a great effort, to realize the danger and the difficult position of the Russian people."

Book: War and Peace by Leo Tolstoy
Recipes: Culinaria: Russia by Marian Trutter

Makarony Po Dalnevostochnomu
(Far Eastern Style Seafood Spaghetti)

2 tbsp butter
2 small onions, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 red bell pepper and 1 green bell pepper (the Pathmark didn't have green pepper, I used scallions)
1 cup white wine
3 1/2 oz of each of the following seafood items, pre-cooked:
Crab meat, shrimp, sea cucumber, squid rings
3 1/2 oz of each of the following fish, uncooked and cut into bite sized pieces:
Salmon and turbot
1 lb long pasta (I used Fusili Bucati) cooked Al Dente
Salt and pepper to taste
Fresh parsley, finely chopped



I couldn't find sea cucumber anywhere.  I had just made a salmon dish the night before.  I cut this recipe down to just the crab, shrimp, and squid rings.  That said, melt your butter over medium high heat and saute the onions until they start to turn translucent.  Add the peppers and garlic (do not let your garlic turn brown - I often do and it adds a smokey flavor that's not the worst thing ever, but is better avoided).  Add your white wine and bring to a boil stirring constantly.  Reduce the heat to medium low; if you are using fish, place the pieces in the sauce and simmer for about 5 minutes, then add the seafood simply to heat it through.  Do not let this boil or leave it too long on the heat, your seafood will get overcooked and turn rubbery.  Serve the sauce over the pasta and garnish with parsley, if you remembered to buy some.  



A few words about squid; last night might have been the first time I have quailed in the face of an ingredient.  The 125th Pathmark carries squid!  It's whole squid with the head and tentacles still on.  I could have handled this but for the tiny fact that they sell it frozen in a giant brick.  I would have had to defrost the whole squid brick, separate the various tentacles from each other and would have been stuck with way more than 3 oz of squid heads.  I retreated to the crab and shrimp section and called my friend Deepak.  Kitchen helper Dee had a far more pleasant experience at the Union Square Whole Foods, where he was able to buy fresh, nicely packaged, cleaned squid bodies, tentacles removed.  They look a little like used condoms.  Thanks to the Minimalist Chef, Mark Bittman, I didn't overcook my squid (too much).



About the book:

One of the challenges of authors with complex plots is how to represent a lapse of time when you are switching between characters.  Kurt Vonnegut relied ironically on "meanwhile, back at the ranch," but most authors, including Tolstoy, generally state at the outset of a new chapter something to the effect of, "while Natasha was plotting to elope with Anatole, Andrew was faithfully writing her a love letter."  Except that after the burning of Moscow he stops doing this.  He jumps from subplot to subplot leaving us to think that we are simply continuing forward in our regularly scheduled timeline.

The effects of this are stunning when he has Vasili Kuragin perform a dramatic reading of the dedication of an icon to the defense of Moscow.  When I read this, I thought, but Moscow's already burning!  And it isn't until halfway through the chapter that you realize Tolstoy has jumped back in time to before the battle of Borodino.  Prince Vasili doesn't know that his son has nearly died.  The characters do not know that Kutuzov has abandoned Moscow or that most of Moscow has burned to the ground.  When the people of St Petersburg get the first misinformation that Kutuzov has won the battle, it comes on the emperor's birthday, "so now the courtiers' pleasure was based as much on the fact that the news had arrived on the Emperor's birthday as on the fact of the victory itself. It was like a successfully arranged surprise."  But the reader knows the truth of the battle, and it is this dramatic irony that shapes the pathos which we feel for these proud, pathetic characters.

3.29.2010

Book 12 - Chapter 1 - Lososina Tushonaya S Susom Iz Petrushki and Piere Saves Himself and a Little Girl

Book: War and Peace by Leo Tolstoy
Recipes: Culinaria: Russia by Marian Trutter

Lososina Tushonaya S Susom Iz Petrushki
(Steamed Salmon in a Parsley [and Butter] Sauce

To steam the fish:

2 Large Salmon Fillets (cut into small portions)
7 tbsp butter (yes, you are reading that correctly)
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup pickeled gherkin brine
1 bunch parsley, finely chopped
1 bay leaf

For the sauce:

1 shallot, finely chopped
7 tbsp dry white wine
3/4 cup fish stock (reserved from steaming the fish)
2/3 cup butter (yes, more and yet more butter), cut into tbsp pieces
Salt and pepper (but you really don't need much salt if you are using salted butter)
1 bunch parsley, finely chopped

To steam the salmon, melt the butter, add the wine, brine, parsley, and bay leaf.  Bring to a boil, lower heat, cover and steam fish for just about 3 minutes.  Set aside and keep warm.

For the sauce, saute the shallots in the wine until the liquid has evaporated.  Add the reserved fish stock and boil until it reduces to half its volume.  Add the butter a piece at a time stirring constantly.  This seems to be some kind of Russian style hollandaise sauce.  Add the parsley and heat through, adding the fish back to the pan to warm it.  Serve with blissfully plain boiled potatoes.


This is a good recipe.  It's indescribably rich (as though it could be otherwise with all that butter!).  However,  two of the people eating it hate sweet pickles (Jay and I).  Here're the changes I would make:  1.  Cut down the butter slightly when cooking the fish.  2.  Cut the brine to 1/8 cup, unless you LOVE sweet gherkins, then you might actually want to finely chop a few and throw them in.  3.  Use a steamer basket to keep the fish out of the stock and prevent its being overcooked.  4.  Strain the fish sauce through a sieve to remove the brown parsley.  5.  Cut down the butter even further for the sauce and maybe add a little more wine.


All in all, everyone enjoyed it, but Yoga was compulsory today in order to feel secure in the right functioning of all arteries.

About the book:

Some people only discover what they are capable of when they are acting in the service of others.  Pierre Bezhukov discovers this in the last chapters of Book 11.  He is driven to do something for Moscow but realizes he hasn't the right temperament to make a good assassin. Instead, he finds himself wandering through flaming Moscow nearly delirious.  He rescues a young girl from the fires and then prevents a French soldier from violating a beautiful young woman.  He is arrested for his actions and taken into solitary confinement but he has yet to reveal his identity.  This might be the event of his life that makes him change from a purposeless nobleman into a man.

1.31.2010

Chapter 9 - Pickled Herring on Toast, Salmon Koulibiac, "Russian Salad," and Apparently Some Russians Drink Rum

Book:  War and Peace by Leo Tolstoy
Recipes:  Blue Hill Bay Pickled Herring
Trout Koulibiac
Russian Salad

Music:  A Russian Weekend - Various Artists

Pickled Herring on Dark Wheat Toasts
(I did not pickle my own herring)

I bought a jar of Blue Hill Bay Herring Fillets in Wine Marinade and I cut up some Dark Wheat bread and it was delicious.  Interestingly sweet and surprisingly tasty.  After the toast was gone, Samantha was eating it with a fork from the bowl, it was that good.

Salmon Koulibiac

Ingredients:
2 Salmon Fillets
2 Hard Boiled Eggs
1 cup of cooked long grain rice
2 Bunches Green Onion (sliced both white and green portions)
Large bunch of Fresh Dill
1 Lemon (zested and juiced)
Box of Puff Pastry
1 Egg (beaten for glaze)

If you are going out to see some friends at an open mic before dinner and don't want to eat at midnight, I suggest prepping your filling ahead of time.  Add half the dill to the water and steam the salmon for just about 4 minutes.  Don't listen to any web site that says you have to (over)steam your salmon for 10 minutes, it won't ruin it, it just won't be nearly as tasty.  Flake the salmon,  and mix everything together in a big bowl to await your return.  And don't, as I did, forget to boil the eggs, because that will spoil your whole plan for getting that prep work finished ahead of time.  If  you have a faithful kitchen friend named "biscuit Ben," ask him kindly to boil the eggs for you, then crumble them and add them to the mix.  When you are ready to bake, use one sheet of puff pastry for the bottom.  You are supposed to roll it out - I don't have a rolling pin and couldn't use my grandmother's "Vodka bottle as a rolling pin" substitute because my vodka bottle has chocolate drips all over it - so I just oiled a baking dish and threw the sheet in there and that worked fine.  Spread the salmon mixture evenly over the pastry, leaving room at the edges to seal it.  Assemble the top, pressing the edges together and brush with the beaten egg.  Bake at 400 degrees for 30 minutes until golden brown. 

A note about looking for fresh, skinless trout fillets in East Harlem.  Don't bother.  The original recipe called for trout, which I really wanted to try, but there is only one fish market in my neighborhood and no trout to be found and only salmon steaks with the skin on.  I ended up buying frozen fillets in individual sealed packages.  It was fine.


 "Russian Salad"

Ingredients:
2 cartons of grape tomatoes (because they are the only ones that are red right now)
3 cloves garlic
1/2 Vidalia onion
1/2 Cup sour cream
Salt pepper to taste

Slice tomatoes into chunks, press garlic, and chop onion finely. Add sour cream and salt and pepper. Mix well and chill. Let stand long enough for flavors to blend.  If you are not a big onion person, don't add the whole onion, it's really oniony.  But tasty and a nice, creamy accompaniment to our Koulibiac.


Some suggested variations to the Koulibiac:  Sam thought Feta would add nicely to the mix and I think some white sauce or alfredo-style sauce would complement it deliciously.  I think you could use the alfredo sauce especially if you used a regular pie crust, which would give you more of a pot-pie taste to it.  I imagine you could substitute any other sort of shredded meat as well, if you are not a fish lover.  Also, if you have any leftover filling when you are done, I think it would be great mixed up with mayo in pita bread.

About the book:  Apparently, the Russian aristocracy was even more "French" than I realized.  At one point, an awkward son of our social grasper wished to tell a story at a party and insisted on it being spoken in Russian, but he spoke haltingly "as a Frenchman might, who'd lived in Russia for a year."  I also read about the other son, Anatole, who was a "rake" about town and threw drunken card parties every night before visiting the brothels.  He had a friend who made a bet that he could climb out on the roof, drink an entire bottle of rum (not vodka!) without taking the bottle away from his lips and without holding on to anything for support.  He won his bet and he might be a quite charming addition to some of our more raucous, modern fraternity parties.

The set up of the story right now is that all the proper people are anti-Napoleon and have staying in their midst a "true" emigre from France.  Who seems to be staying there only until the Bourbon restoration comes out on top.  These folks have his and her coachmen to assist with capes and jackets, and twiddle their time away at parties praising the Czar and his family and cursing the revolutionaries.  A few "uncivilized" young persons advocate for Napoleon,  but so far they have been quickly muffled up by empty pleasantries and overzealous hostesses who speak too much French.  NB:  It is only to the revolutionaries that Pierre (a half-Italian illegitimate son) is know as Pyotr. 

About the music:  The nutcracker suite is not suggested eating music.  I believe all the comments were to the effect of "I feel as though I have to eat faster!"  We had to skip ahead to the Borodin in order to enjoy a relaxing tune with our meal.